In modern days, plastic has increasingly become a common material used in manufacturing our clothing. According to Statista, as of 2023, about 67% of the volume of textile fiber made globally consisted of synthetic fibers, most notably polyester. This raises the question: what materials did people use to make their clothing before synthetic fibers? And, as the weather continues to get colder, what materials did they use to stay warm?

As a general rule, people did with what they had. The best example to illustrate this is traditional costumes from New Guinea, Melanesia, and Polynesia. In her book, What People Wore When, Melissa Leventon notes that those regions have no textile fiber that can be cultivated for weaving. “Instead,” she explained, “islanders have used tree bark for centuries to make tapa cloth.” This cloth, as explained by the Museum of Natural and Cultural History, is“made from bark that has been softened through a process of soaking and beating,” and according to the book, “can be as fine and pliable as silk or as coarse and stiff as burlap.”

The traditional dress of cold regions helps determine what materials were used for warmth. According to Leventon’s book, wool appears to be a common feature in Northern European traditional costume and Scottish regional dress since the 16th century, often exemplified by the wool cloak. 

Furthermore, the book states that “the cloth seen in the traditional dress of Iceland is almost universally constructed from homespun wool.” Wool cloth is a material that is effective in keeping people warm, as many traditional costumes from cold regions share this material in common. 

Another material that helps insulate would be animal skin, as the book states that animal skin is featured in Scandinavian and Central European costumes. However, animal skin, such as fur, is harder to incorporate in modern times. The morality of wearing fur is a controversial topic, encompassing environmental and ethical concerns. As such, many US cities are starting to ban fur sales, with California becoming the first state to do so according to the Fur Free Alliance. 

Nevertheless, wool and animal skin seem to be the ideal options for warm clothing. 

What materials did people in Japan wear? According to the book Textile Art of Japan by Sunny Yang, prior to the 15th century, the kimono was made with bast fibers—fiber made from “flowering plants with net-veined leaves” such as flax and kemp. 

Then, cotton began to be imported and popularized. During the Edo period (1603~1868), the Tokyo Metropolitan Library explains that materials used in ordinary people’s clothing widely shifted from hemp to cotton. While silk also was a material used for clothing, it was reserved for the rich due to its high price, and commoners mostly relied on cotton due to its durability, texture, low price, and ease of dying.

Before synthetic fibers were available, people clothed themselves with the fibers that were available, and stayed warm by wearing materials such as wool and cotton, depending on the region. In the modern world, we have very few problems with the availability of various materials. Let’s think of these examples as we consider how to cut back on our use of plastic and how to combat winter weather.